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I
arrived here on Tuesday at the Nosy-Varinda Nature Reserve deep
in the heart of the scarred, eroded, ecologically ravaged and ruined
countryside of Madagascar, and I've been hard at work writing my
Report from the Field ever since. Getting here
was almost impossible because the bridge that I had been assured
connected Madagascar and the mainland does not exist, and my car
developed the automotive equivalent of AIDS in Antananarivo. I
lost my fuel pump, fan belt, front shocks, rear shocks, radio, wipers,
turn signals and cigarette lighter. Then someone hit me from
behind, proving once again that nothing in life is easy. Since
there were no garages, I was forced to hire a taxi to carry me and
my suitcases the rest of the way to Nosy-Varinda, but when I got
there I was sure glad I had, because Dr. Ambato Ambilobe, Dean of
Primatology at the much-respected Antananarivo University, was waiting
for me with a hot Madagascar toddy. As we sipped the thin,
bittersweet liquid and listened to the eerie sound of giant mouse
lemurs hoot-panting in the distance, Dr. Ambilobe began to describe
his controversial work with the aye-aye-aye, that most mysterious
and hard to understand of all the so-called prosimians.
He had just gotten
to the part about the greatly reduced dentition when there was a
tremendous crashing noise and a bulldozer burst through the rear
wall of the house. It belonged to one of the logging companies
and its driver had apparently been told to clear the entire area.
Dr. Ambilobe told the man that this is a nature reserve and
he was to stop bulldozing at once! The driver said he could
delay it for a couple of days, but he advised the Professor to get
it straightened out right away with higher authorities. Early
Wednesday morning my head was still spinning from Madagascar toddies
and stories about aye-aye-ayes and bulldozer fumes. As I was
trying to sleep, I heard the camp Land Rover roaring past the guest
hut. It was Dr. Ambilobe going to see the Parks Director in
Antananarivo. He was gone until Friday, during which time
I had only one phone conversation with him. He stated that
the aye-aye-aye is definitely not related to the aye-aye, a matter
that had puzzled me for years. By the time he returned, I
was preparing to depart, anxious as always to post my Report.
That's about it
for this issue. I guess you know all you need to know now
about Nosy-Varinda and the mysterious aye-aye-aye. Anyway,
next time I'm going to have my car completely rebuilt and try to
make it to the green and unruly forests of northern Bali-Bali, scene
of the current search efforts for Professor Mitsuo Ohhohoho. So
until then, I'll just say So long. |
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