When
I heard that Primate Nooz was going to resume publication,
I e-mailed Mr. Kashihara Takeshitahara, new owner of the Nooz,
whose brother Takeshi was a colleague of mine before being
lost in a whirlpool, and he suggested that I reprise my old
column and do a Report from the Field about Dr.
Poon Sanddandtundra, the eminent Indian. I immediately
resigned my position at Automotive Primatology Magazine,
cancelled my next Monkey Mechanics seminar at Sigsbee Junior
Night College, gave my cat to a friend, turned off the gas
in my apartment, and reserved a seat on the next flight to
New Delhi.
That was last week. I
arrived here on Tuesday at the Jabalpur National Bluetongue
Macaque Reservation along the silt-filled Ghaghra River in
the dusty state of Uttar Pradesh in northern India, and I've
been hard at work writing my Report ever since.
The new car provided me in New Delhi by the Takeshitahara
Corp. worked out fine, and I had no mechanical difficulties
whatsoever. Quite a change for me, I must say.
Unfortunately, it was stolen by a gang of Untouchables while
I was shopping for hair gel in Sardarshahr, and I was forced
to travel the rest of the way by canoe along a series of rivers,
first the mighty Firozabad, then the blackwater Muzaffarnagar,
then the Ganjapur and the Chindwara, the smaller Raipatna
and Indore and Modasa, and finally the Ghaghra, by which time
I was thoroughly sick of rivers and canoes and India in general.
But when I did finally arrive at the whitewashed wooden
front gates of Jabalpur, I was sure glad I had come because
Dr. Poon Sanddandtundra was waiting for me with a broad smile
and a large glass of warm Nepalese brandy. Several dozen
children raced out of the house and toted my suitcases into
one of the guest bungalows, laughing and shrieking, while
Dr. Sanddandtundra walked me around the compound. After
a delicious dinner of toor dal, chickpeas, palak alu and bhindi
tamatar, with some excellent peach-mango ice cream for dessert,
it was off to a comfortable bed and my first good night's
sleep in several days.
On Tuesday night, monsoon
rains fell across Uttar Pradesh and the Ghaghra River overflowed
its banks and flooded the compound. Dr. Sanddandtundra
quickly evacuated all the personnel, but somehow he forgot
about me. I woke up Wednesday afternoon to find everyone
gone, and everything except my bungalow underwater. Fortunately,
there was some naan and mango chutney in the cooling box,
and I nibbled on that while working on my Report,
wondering what exciting things Dr. Sandandtundra would tell
me when he returned. Would I hear about the bluetongue
macaques? The giant monkeys he found years ago north
of Nepal? The pouched langurs he kept as pets when
he was a child? Abominable primates and his relationship
with Uzman Shakhrisyabz?
By Friday, the naan was
beginning to run out, and I was feeling a bit peckish. I
managed to swim across the compound to a little supply hut
that had emerged from the receding waters and found some cans
of spicy lizard koorma and a few water-logged boxes of powdered
yoghurt. My Report was going well, so I
took the rest of the afternoon off and rigged a crude hammock
in the upper branches of some dwarf Nizamabad trees. I
lay there listening to the sibilant sighs of several greater
Indian mongooses in the forest as the sun slowly sank in the
west. Dr. Sanddandtundra returned the next morning but
was busy all day cleaning up the mess. He promised to
spare me a few minutes to tell me about his work at the Reservation
and his discoveries north of Nepal, but after several brandies
he fell asleep on the front porch of his house and didn't
recover until I was getting ready to leave on Sunday. I
had very much wanted to find out something about him so as
not to disappoint my new superiors at the Takeshitahara Corporation,
but the canoe was about to depart and I had many rivers to
traverse before filing my Report.
That's about it for this
issue. I wish it hadn't rained, but those are the breaks,
right? Remember what I used to say? Nothing in
life is easy. Anyway, next time, if the Takeshitahara
Corporation will get me another car, I'll try to get to the
Abominable Primate Study Center for a chat with Dr. Uzman
Shakhrisyabz. So until then, I'll just say, So long. |